Bushy-tailed Jird

Sekeetamys calurus (Thomas)

Introduction

The Bushy-tailed Jird is the sole member of its genus. It was originally included, circa 1892, within the genus Gerbillus (the typical gerbils), before being shunted laterally into Meriones (the true jirds). In 1947 it was considerably sufficient different from all other jirds for a subgenus, Sekeetamys, to be set up within Meriones to contain this single species. Since 1956, on the basis of chromosomal studies, Sekeetamys has been considered a full genus.

Size

Head and body length 9.8-12.8 cm;  tail 11-16.4 cm; weight in captivity 80-95 grams. The average weight of wild specimens is considerably less, at about 45 grams. Males are generally a little larger than females. The tail is bushy for more than half its length, but dominant males possess the bushiest tails.

Distribution

Eastern Egypt along the shores of the Red Sea, through Sinai, south-east Israel, Jordan, and central Saudi Arabia. Status: common.

Natural Habitat

Arid rocky slopes with solid soil and broken ground.

Social Structure

This species will live in pairs or colonies, but be aware that cannibalism of pups results if the cage is overcrowded. Several breeders have found that more litters are lost under the colony system, than when the animals are kept in pairs. As a general rule, most jirds and gerbils are notoriously intolerant of strangers and, with most taxa, it is almost impossible to introduce strangers into an established cage. Bushy-tailed Jirds seem to be the exception to the rule and, apparently, introductions are a relatively easy procedure. I am unable to comment too much on this because I have not as yet attempted an introduction.

Behaviour

Nocturnal. It is claimed that, in captivity at least, it does have bouts of activity during the day as well, particularly when disturbed. My own experience tend to contradict this; I have found it to be even more nocturnal than other kinds of jirds.

In its natural environment it lives under boulders and rocky outcrops, rather than in open ground. Living as it does in a very rocky environment, it has developed considerable climbing skills, which should be provided for in captivity.

Accommodation

Being so active, the only truly satisfactory cage is a really big (at least 15-20 gallon) glass aquarium, with a wire mesh lid. Plastic tanks are rarely effective. Not only are they usually too small for most species, but any species as destructive as this one can soon chew its way out.

Those plastic cages, marketed under a range of brand names, that claim to be realistic simulations of the animals' burrows are, in my opinion, even worse as permanent housing.

I have to admit that I don't really like conventional barred hamster cages. The only species one seems to be able to keep in them long-term is, not surprisingly, the Syrian Hamster for which they were designed. Gerbils or jirds, when kept in such cages, always look bored and indulge in neurotic, stereotyped behaviour, such as scrabbling in the corners of the cage, probably because such cages offer no provision for burrowing, and a gerbil/jird which is denied this most natural of behaviours is a frustrated individual. The animals will often attempt to relieve their boredom by gnawing on the cage bars; this can lead to sores around the mouth and nose, and ultimately to infection. These cages usually come with one or more levels, which, to facilitate cleaning, are functional and grill-like, allowing droppings and uneaten food to fall through. Since this type of flooring must be uncomfortable to the animals' feet, I suggest, if you do resort to using this type of cage, you should fix cardboard to the shelves. Of course, the cardboard will need to be replaced periodically.

The tank should be situated in a warm room, well away from draughts (such as doors and windows), sources of heat (such as radiators), and direct sunlight. Neither should it be stood on the floor, as the temperature is more variable at lower elevations and fluctuating temperature is a major cause of illness. A cautionary note here on temperature: jirds and gerbils, even though they are mostly found in hot deserts, do not sweat and consequently excessive heat can prove fatal. This is why, in the wild, most species are nocturnal, venturing out only at night. An exception is the Clawed Jird or Mongolian Gerbil, which is largely diurnal, but that species is found in a "cold desert".

Having installed the tank in its permanent position, one can silicone some decorative rocks together to form naturalistic "caves" in simulation of the jirds' natural habitat. Slate is one of the best for this purpose, but make sure it has no sharp edges.

Bushy-tailed Jirds like to have a sleeping-box but will also squeeze into a jam-jar or anywhere else that seems to offer seclusion and protection.

Depending on its size and the number of occupants, the cage will need to be cleaned out only once a week or fortnightly.

Litter & Bedding

I mostly use coarse wood-chips for the substrate or floor covering. Hard wood is best, but not, perhaps, always environmentally preferable. Notice that I have emphasised the word "coarse". Avoid anything too dusty. The dust from pine wood can cause upper respiratory tract infections in all rodents (rats are especially sensitive), whereas cedar shavings contain toxic phenols. The relatively high incidence of cancerous tumours in some rodents may be partially due to these oils.

Corncob bedding is another choice, although I personally cannot vouch for its effectiveness, never having used it, but I believe it to be very good and a possible replacement for the traditional wood-chips. For my comments on the new cat-litter bedding recommended (but not by me) for rodents, refer to the relevant section on the Degu.

            Bedding can consist of fresh hay, tissue or shredded paper. Do not use cotton wool or any of the synthetic fluffy hamster bedding that looks or feels like cotton wool. According to the labelling, this is quite safe but I have doubts, as there are numerous reports that animals have died after choking on it, or that it has led to impaction of the intestines.

Accessories

Rodents need to gnaw to prevent malocclusion, so provide a few blocks of untreated wood or special Chinchilla nibble stones, in addition to cardboard tubes, card packaging, etc. Since these animals are so adept at climbing, position a number of branches and rocks in the cage. Wash the branches in a mild detergent solution, and rinse and dry thoroughly before placing them in the cage. Be aware that branches which have been lying around on the ground for some time may be diseased or infected with mildew. Make sure the tree has not been sprayed lately. Some wood, such as lime and conifers, contains a sticky resin. Without doubt, apple (and most other fruit trees) or some deciduous trees such as oak, elm or ash are the best woods to use. Replace the branches frequently as they dry out or become too soiled.

Bushy-tailed Jirds benefit from a sand bath two or three times a week. Without it, their fur can become excessively greasy and will lose its lustre. Special Chinchilla sand can be purchased from pet stores for this purpose, or else very finely sieved clean sand will do just as well. Pour it in a glass, metal or earthenware bowl to a depth of about 5 cm. Do not leave it in the cage too long, however, or it will lose its novelty value and the animals may well use it as a litter tray.

            As a rule I generally do not recommend wheels for any long-tailed rodent. Even if the wheel is the safer "solid" kind, without the awful metal rungs which can so easily trap legs and tails often with disastrous consequences, the delicate skin on the tail can become damaged because of the friction. There is little doubt, however, that Bushy-tailed Jirds do enjoy this form of exercise. If you do decide to include a wheel, choose a solid one of at least 7" in diameter, and make sure it is sufficiently clear above the substrate to spin easily. If one of the old-fashioned spoked kind is all you can find, weave heavy card between the spokes. This will, of course, need replacing at intervals.

Clean, fresh water is essential, and you will be surprised by how much water these animals do drink.

Feeding

Provide a standard rodent mixture, low in sunflower seeds, as the basic diet, to which you can add rodent pellets, plus a few hard dog biscuits. Commercial rodent breeders feed pellets extensively but, whilst pellets do reportedly contain all the essential vitamins and minerals, they are bland and monotonous. The provision of a varied diet is one of the greatest weapons in the keeper's armoury for preventing boredom in his animals.

Treat items that can be offered twice a week include stale or toasted bread, millet, peanuts-in-shells ("monkey nuts"), apple, carrot, broccoli, dandelion leaves, and a few mealworms. Remember that dandelion is a diuretic and should be offered sparingly. Too much greenstuff can cause diarrhoea. Now is the time to offer a few sunflower seeds. Scatter them around the cage to provide foraging activity. Sunflower seeds are enjoyed by most rodents, but are extremely fattening, and I do not believe in giving them ad lib in the food bowl. . Low in calcium, they have been implicated in cases of osteoporosis in some rodents. As a treat item, though, they are fine. Most rodents relish the addition of a few live insects in their diet; if you cannot bring yourself to do this, consider offering a small amount of natural yoghurt, cottage cheese, or cooked egg occasionally.

Handling

Reluctant to bite, naturally friendly (sometimes even more so than the Mongolian Gerbil), and tames easily, even to the extent of eating out of your hand  on occasion. The best way to pick up a Bushy-tailed Jird is to gently "scoop" it up with both hands, or allow it to walk onto your open palm. Never be tempted to grasp it by the tail, which is easily damaged and may be lost completely.

Sit on the floor or handle the animal over a table, couch, etc, as they appear to have no comprehension of gravity or distance and will walk off your hand into "mid-air" with great aplomb. As with all animals with an acute sense of smell, it is a mistake to handle them immediately after you have eaten, as your hands will smell of food and this is when they are most likely to nip.

Reproduction

In comparison to most jirds, Bushy-tailed Jirds reproduce freely in captivity. They breed throughout the year, but young, inexperienced mothers often fail to raise their first litter. The gestation period is 21-25 days. The litter size ranges from 2-9 (average 3-4). The young are born blind, naked and helpless. Most births seem to occur between the hours of 9.00 am and 5.00 pm. The nursing female is very prone to disturbance at this stage, and may even destroy the litter if she is stressed. She needs to feel secure. For this reason, it is better to keep the species in a pair situation, rather than in a colony, in a quiet room and suspend the normal cleaning routine for at least 16 days following the birth. Add a few more rabbit pellets to the diet at this stage. The pups are furred at 7 days; their eyes open at around 14 days, and they are weaned at 22 days. Sexual maturity is attained at 3-4 months.

Life Span

A life-span of between 3-4 years is average, but one exceptional individual lived for 5 years 5 months.